Tuesday, June 14, 2016

I'm in the process of installing many LED strips in my house. You may find it instructive to look at the couple I've evaluated.
Because I didn't want to spend $50, $100, or more for every 5m LED spool, my strips have all come from China-direct sources. Read on to learn about the issues I’ve encountered.
The biggest problem I found with the two LED strip types I evaluated is that the conductor resistance is simply too high. It's not a big deal if you're cutting the strips to, say, 1m lengths, but using longer pieces means feeding power to a few spots along the strip – not a big problem, as there are solder pads every three LEDs, but a pain nonetheless.
The 3528 LED strip

And the higher brightness 5630 LED strip
Note that these are both 12V, 60 LED/m, 5m strips. They consist of 100 three-LED groups: each group is a series string of the LEDs and a current-limiting resistor. Thus, the load is very nonlinear: a small change in voltage results in a much bigger change in current than a resistive load would cause.
Here are my findings:


Cost (USD)
$4.53
$6.94
Width (mm)
7.7
10.5
I (end-fed, A)
1.1
2.4
I (ideal, A)
1.9
4.2
I (LED, near-end, mA)
19
42
I (LED, far-end, mA)
7.7
18.5
V (across resistors, near-end, V)
2.5
1.65
V (far-end, V)
10.0
10.3
R (resistors, Ω)
130
39
R (one 5m conductor, Ω)
2.1
0.7

The key takeaway from the table is the drop in far-end LED current to about 42% of the near-end current when fed at only one end.
My workaround is to attach the 12V wiring to the 5m strips at two or three spots along their length. The ideal two-spot attachment points are at ¼ from each end, making no LED more than 1.25m from a power source, though that will still result in a fair bit of brightness loss. The 5630 strips have wire pigtails at both ends, so they make easy – if suboptimal – connection points. Three connections – 1/6 from each end and the center – would make the maximum LED-power distance 0.83m. Believe it or not, the cheapest suitable wiring I can find is standard 14/2 (AWG 14, two- (plus ground) conductor) AC cable. Cheapest, at least, when bought on a 150m spool.
Despite the low prices, all the strips I bought also came with a little control board that offers dimming and various blinking patterns, and actually works perfectly well, even to the point of maintaining its setting with power off.

I'm in the process of installing many LED strips in my house. You may find it instructive to look at the couple I've evaluated.
Because I didn't want to spend $50, $100, or more for every 5m LED spool, my strips have all come from China-direct sources. Read on to learn about the issues I’ve encountered.
The biggest problem I found with the two LED strip types I evaluated is that the conductor resistance is simply too high. It's not a big deal if you're cutting the strips to, say, 1m lengths, but using longer pieces means feeding power to a few spots along the strip – not a big problem, as there are solder pads every three LEDs, but a pain nonetheless.
The 3528 LED strip

And the higher brightness 5630 LED strip
Note that these are both 12V, 60 LED/m, 5m strips. They consist of 100 three-LED groups: each group is a series string of the LEDs and a current-limiting resistor. Thus, the load is very nonlinear: a small change in voltage results in a much bigger change in current than a resistive load would cause.
Here are my findings:


Cost (USD)
$4.53
$6.94
Width (mm)
7.7
10.5
I (end-fed, A)
1.1
2.4
I (ideal, A)
1.9
4.2
I (LED, near-end, mA)
19
42
I (LED, far-end, mA)
7.7
18.5
V (across resistors, near-end, V)
2.5
1.65
V (far-end, V)
10.0
10.3
R (resistors, Ω)
130
39
R (one 5m conductor, Ω)
2.1
0.7

The key takeaway from the table is the drop in far-end LED current to about 42% of the near-end current when fed at only one end.
My workaround is to attach the 12V wiring to the 5m strips at two or three spots along their length. The ideal two-spot attachment points are at ¼ from each end, making no LED more than 1.25m from a power source, though that will still result in a fair bit of brightness loss. The 5630 strips have wire pigtails at both ends, so they make easy – if suboptimal – connection points. Three connections – 1/6 from each end and the center – would make the maximum LED-power distance 0.83m. Believe it or not, the cheapest suitable wiring I can find is standard 14/2 (AWG 14, two- (plus ground) conductor) AC cable. Cheapest, at least, when bought on a 150m spool.
Despite the low prices, all the strips I bought also came with a little control board that offers dimming and various blinking patterns, and actually works perfectly well, even to the point of maintaining its setting with power off.

The bottom chip is an Atmel 24C02 256 byte EEPROM; the other, unmarked (ASIC or µC). The board seems to be made for RGB given the three transistors and COLOR button, but those transistors are actually in parallel. Go figure. As always, the image is larger than it appears.

About sources: Although I’ve bought quite a few items besides LED strips from the GearBest Website, and was usually happy with the results, I no longer patronize them, given the awful PSUs they sold me, but particularly because they won't print my negative reviews about them. Okay, they're probably not unique in either respect, but there are many other similar sites to choose from. Which do you like?
I’m very curious whether the much more expensive strips from other vendors have the same voltage drop problem I've discovered in the cheap ones. If you have any, please run some tests and let us know in the comments.
The bottom chip is an Atmel 24C02 256 byte EEPROM; the other, unmarked (ASIC or µC). The board seems to be made for RGB given the three transistors and COLOR button, but those transistors are actually in parallel. Go figure. As always, the image is larger than it appears.

About sources: Although I’ve bought quite a few items besides LED strips from the GearBest Website, and was usually happy with the results, I no longer patronize them, given the awful PSUs they sold me, but particularly because they won't print my negative reviews about them. Okay, they're probably not unique in either respect, but there are many other similar sites to choose from. Which do you like?
I’m very curious whether the much more expensive strips from other vendors have the same voltage drop problem I've discovered in the cheap ones. If you have any, please run some tests and let us know in the comments.

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Measuring you electric usage and changing habits can lead to big savings!

Measuring your home’s energy consumption is the first step toward finding ways to decrease it. While almost every residence has an electric meter, it usually only shows total household energy (kWh) consumed, although some include instantaneous power being used (kW). And the meter is usually placed where it is convenient for the utility—not for you—to read. But conservation-minded homeowners and renters can choose from several products that measure and record electricity consumption to reveal the energy hogs. The information is shown on a convenient counter top display or remotely on a smartphone or a computer screen.

If you want to use energy data to help reduce usage or convince other household members to adopt energy-saving behaviors, an energy monitoring system is for you. Or maybe you want to see how large a backup generator you need for utility outages, or how large a solar-electric system you need for your home. Maybe you just want to identify the biggest electricity loads in your household. If you already have a PV or wind system, you might need to monitor the on-site generation.

The Basics
A typical home energy monitoring system includes sensors, a data gateway, and a display to receive and view the information. Standard information includes energy consumption in kilowatt-hours (kWh) and power draw in kilowatts (kW). Often, monitors include the cost of the electricity consumed, and some allow programming with time-of-use rates.

Monitors require sensors at each point of measurement. Current transducers (CTs) and pulse sensors are most common. CTs are available in split-core or solid-core varieties. Split-core CTs make it easier to install in existing electrical installations, since you can open up the “donut,” and then close it around the wire. Note that CTs are typically not interchangeable between different systems.

A magnetic field is created as the current in the wire flows. When that magnetic field moves through the coil of the CT, it generates voltage proportional to the current flow. This voltage is measured by the electronics and converted into an amperage reading. At the same time, the voltage in the circuit is measured directly, and simple multiplication results in kW. Include the elapsed time, and kWh are computed. The other sensor type—pulse—counts the electronic pulses made by the utility meter as it counts units. Many utility meters for electricity, gas, and water are pulse meters. Simple pulse sensors are not sophisticated enough to determine whether the energy flow is incoming from consumption or outgoing from a home source, like a PV system.

Some meters gather more data from the sensors than others, updating readings every second compared to every 30 seconds. The way in which the data is used in calculating kWh or instantaneous kW will also influence the meter’s accuracy.

The sensors are hard-wired or communicate wirelessly through data loggers or transmitters that, in turn, send data to a local display. Some systems do not need or do not use a separate display. These transmitters are connected to the router so they can communicate within a local area network (LAN) and/or through third-party servers over the Internet. Several transmitters and gateways require a power supply and consume from 3 to 10 W. Most monitors allow information to be downloaded into a spreadsheet for further analysis.


















Monday, December 8, 2008

REDUCE YOUR ELECTRIC BILL!

Wind Turbines
If you have an average wind speed of 10 mph in your area and your usage and/or cost of electricity is high then this method is for you. ... I have submitted a diagram to explain the installation process and each relevant component. Cost is relevant to the size of installation and how much electricity you want to generate. Wind turbines can be connected to your house in several ways to reduce the amount of your bill. For a more detailed description on the concept with a free site survey and cost estimate, call BULLDOG ELECTRIC today at 540-219-7723








Simplified Diagram of a Grid-tie Wind Turbine System with Battery Backup for Home: 1) wind turbine on tower 2) wind turbine controller 3) battery bank 4) grid-tie inverter 5) utility meter to track how much energy is fed into the electric grid (6.) Utility grid.